Saturday, July 25, 2009

kereta perdana

kereta pe uprdana Shared via AddThis

Upgrade your Perdana

Let`s learn first:

Various of Mitsubishi Engine and quite pupular to Proton cars

1) G61 fix

The 4G61 displaces 1595 cc (82.3 x 75.0 mm bore/stroke). This engine was always DOHC 16-valve and used either Multi-point (MPFI) or Electronic Control (ECFI) fuel injection. A turbocharged version was also produced for the Mirage and Lancer. The 4G61 does not have balance shafts like the other 4G6x motors. Instead, it has different components, some of which can be used on the “Silent Shaft” engine.

Performance

· 4G61 91kW-124HP/6500 142Nm/5000

· 4G61T (USA/Canada only) 99kW-135HP/6000 191Nm/3000

· 4G61T (Japan) 160HP-117.68kW/6000 220.65Nm/2500

Applications

· 1988–1992 Mitsubishi Mirage / Mitsubishi Colt (MPFI)

· 1988–1992 Dodge Colt / Plymouth Colt

· 1988–1992 Eagle Summit

· 1992–1995 Hyundai Elantra

2) 4G62

The larger 1.8 L 4G62 was an DOHC 16-valve unit for longitudinal rear-wheel drive and all-wheel drive use. With an 80.6 x 88.0 mm bore / stroke, it displaced 1795 cc.

Applications

· 1983–1989 Mitsubishi Cordia

· 1988 Mitsubishi Tredia

· 1984-1986 Mitsubishi L300 (Australia - Also known as the Mitsubishi Express)

· 1993-1994 Mitsubishi Lancer GSR

3) 4G63

The 4G63 was a 1997 cc version. (85 mm Bore x 88 mm Stroke) SOHC and DOHC were produced. The DOHC version was introduced in 1987 in the Japanese market Galant VR-4 and came turbocharged or naturally aspirated. It is found in various models including the 1988-92 Galant VR-4 and the U.S. market 1990-1994 Eclipse, as well as the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution I-IX.

The SOHC version was used in Mitsubishi Galant models until 1993. It has 76 kW of output and 157 NM of torque at 4750 rpm.

Also the SOHC version is produced until the late 90s and early 2000 and it is used in Mitsubishi cars like the Montero and the 2.0L 2-door Pajero with an output of 101kW at 4700 rpm. Also the N33 and N83 Spacewagon(UK market) in single cam 16 valve format.

The Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon and Plymouth Laser introduced the DOHC turbocharged intercooled version to the U.S. in 1989 through Diamond Star Motors, a joint venture between Mitsubishi Motors and the Chrysler Corporation. From 1990 to late April 1992 came beefier rods and the use of 6 bolts to secure the flywheel to the crankshaft; May 1992 to 2006 Evolution versions have lighter rods and use 7 bolts to secure the flywheel to the crankshaft. They are referred to as the “six bolt” and “seven bolt” engines, respectively.

Output for the 2003 Japanese/US Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution is 271 hp (202 kW) at 6500 rpm with 273 ft·lbf (370 N·m) of torque at 3500 rpm. It has a cast iron engine block and aluminum DOHC cylinder head. It uses multi-point fuel injection, has 4 valves per cylinder, is turbocharged and intercooled and features forged steel connecting rods.

In the United Kingdom, a special Lancer Evolution, the FQ-400, produces 302.13 kW (405.2 hp), from a 4G63 engine. At 202.6 hp (151.3 kW) per liter, it has the highest specific output per liter of any production engine.

Racing

Its turbocharged variant, 4G63T (also sometimes referred to simply as the 4G63), has powered Mitsubishi vehicles in World Rally Championships for years in the Mitsubishi Galant VR-4, Lancer Evolution, Carisma GT and Lancer WRC04. It was the powerplant of the Lancer Evolution when Tommi Mäkinen won his four sequential WRC championships in his Lancer.

Applications

· 1983-1998 Mitsubishi Chariot

· 1984–1987 Dodge Colt Vista

· 1987-1992 Hyundai Stellar

· 1988 Mitsubishi Cordia

· 1988 Mitsubishi Tredia

· 1988–1992 Dodge Colt Vista

· 1989–1992 Mitsubishi Galant

· 1989–1992 US-spec Mitsubishi Galant

· 1990–1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse

· 1990–1998 Eagle Talon

· 1990–1994 Plymouth Laser

· 1982–1990 Mitsubishi Starion (Australia)

· 1992–1998 Hyundai Sonata

· 1986-1998 Hyundai Grandeur

· 1993-1998 Mitsubishi Montero

· 1994–1998 Mitsubishi RVR X3 Turbo

· 1994-1998 Mitsubishi Delica 2WD version (Japan)

· 1996-1999 Proton Perdana sei

· 1992-2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution

· 2001-2006 Mitsubishi Airtrek Turbo

· 2001-2006 Mitsubishi Outlander Turbo

· 2004-present Brilliance BS6

4) 4G64

The longitudinal 4G64 is the second largest variant, at (2350 cc). Early models were 8-valve SOHC, but a later 16-valve SOHC and DOHC version was also produced. All used MPFI with an 86.5 mm bore and 100 mm stroke. The 4G64 was also available with gasoline direct injection. The version used in the Chrysler Sebring/Stratus coupes produced 152 hp (110 kW) at 5500 rpm with 162 ft·lbf (214 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm. The Chrysler version features fracture-split forged powder metal connecting rods. The 4G64 is an interference motor like the 4G63, however, the early 8-valve 4G64 is a non interference engine.

Applications

· 1987–1990 Mitsubishi Sapporo

· 1988–1990 Mitsubishi Van

· 1990–1992 Mitsubishi L200

· 1990–1996 Mitsubishi Mighty Max

· 1986-1998 Hyundai Grandeur

· 1993-1997 Mitsubishi Expo

· 1994–2003 Mitsubishi Galant

· 1996–1998 Mitsubishi Magna

· 1994–2006 Mitsubishi Spacegear (2WD Version)

· 1996–1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS

· 2000–2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS & GS

· 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander

· 2005 Mitsubishi Zinger

· 1989–1991 Hyundai Sonata

· 1990–1992 Dodge Ram 50

· 2001–2005 Chrysler Sebring coupe/Dodge Stratus coupe

· 2004-present Brilliance BS6

· 2008-present Chery V5

· 2006-present Great Wall Hover

· 2006-present Great Wall Hover Pi

5) 4G67

The 16-valve DOHC 4G67 displaced 1836 cc. Bore x Stroke : 81.5 x 88

Applications

· Mitsubishi Mirage

· Mitsubishi Galant

· Mitsubishi Lancer

· Hyundai Elantra

6) 4G69

The 4G69 is a 2378 cc version built in Shiga, Japan. Bore is 87 mm and stroke is 100 mm. Output is 162 hp (119 kW) at 5750 rpm (160 in the Sportback Wagon) with 162 ft·lbf (219 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm. It has a cast iron engine block and aluminum SOHC cylinder heads. It uses multi-point fuel injection, has 4 valves per cylinder with roller followers and features forged steel connecting rods, a one-piece cast camshaft, and a cast aluminum intake manifold. The 4G69 incorporates Mitsubishi’s MIVEC Variable Valve Timing technology. The 4G69 is an interference motor like the 4G63 and 4G64.

Applications

· 2003–present Mitsubishi Grandis

· 2004–2006 Mitsubishi Lancer (Ralliart and Sportback Wagon only)

· 2004–present Mitsubishi Galant

· 2004–present Mitsubishi Outlander

· 2006–present Mitsubishi Eclipse

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Perdana V6 Spare Parts list

..Spare parts for Perdana V6 for reference..

  1. Timing Belt : MMC RM220, Gates RM250, Dayco RM295
  2. Bosch Double Platinum Spark Plugs – RM32 per piece, Mkt price RM45+, Plugs can lasts up to 100kkm.
  3. Bosch Fusion Iridium Platinum Spark plugs – RM210 6pcs
  4. Pro Rallye plug wire from USA together with grounding cable, rm220, Plug wire is 10mm, good performance.
  5. Castrol Magnatec together with Bosch oil filter – RM82.
  6. Top overhaul set Showa (made in Japan) RM345.
  7. Overhaul set Showa (made in Japan) RM415
  8. ATF filter & gasket – RM87, Original Proton.
  9. Water pump – RM95 GMB
  10. Black crystal headlamp – RM470 per pair (made in Taiwan)
  11. Bosch wiperblades – RM27
  12. Brake pads, Bendix Metal King Titanium RM94 Front, RM90 Rear.
  13. Bosch Brake pads, RM44 Front, RM48 Rear.
  14. Sachs absorbers front RM195 (per side) rear RM195 (per side)
  15. Kayaba absorbers RM80 front per side (oil), rear RM80 (gas) per side. Actually for Perdana SEI, but can be used for V6 as well. Outside selling Rm100++
  16. Proton ATF oil, RM19 per bottle, use 4 bottles.
  17. Local Perdana air filter – RM13
  18. Bosch alternator V6 RM195
  19. Front wheel bearing RM122 per side (made in Japan)
  20. Rear wheel bearing – RM145 per side (made in Japan)
  21. Lower arm upper- RM70, middle – RM55, lower RM55 per piece (SSS)
  22. Drive shaft head RM85, whole set RM 205
  23. Perdana outer door handle front RM160 per side, original Proton.
  24. Perdana door visors –RM100 (big), RM58 small
  25. Tie-rod end RM60 (2pcs),
  26. Rack end RM65 (2pcs)
  27. Drive Shaft – CyCar (Cycle & Carriage) long RM150, Short RM150

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Tip Top your Perdana Performence

"..10 Under Hood Checks.."


  • 1)Engine oil level
  • 2)Transmission fluid
  • 3)Brake fluid
  • 4)Power steering fluid
  • 5)Coolant (Antifreeze) level
  • 6)Battery
  • 7)Windshield washer solvent
  • 8)Belts and Hoses
  • 9)Windshield wiper blades
  • 10)Tires

  • Engine oil level
    This is the most important under-hood check you can do. An engine cannot run without oil even for a minute without serious engine damage or total destruction!
    To check the oil level, make sure that the engine is turned off, then find the engine oil dipstick and remove it. With a paper towel or rag, wipe off the end of the stick and notice the markings on it. You will usually see a mark for "Full" and another mark for "Add." Check your owners manual to be sure. Push the stick back into the tube until it seats then immediately pull it out to see the oil level. You should not add oil unless the level is below the "Add" mark and NEVER add oil to bring the level above the "Full" mark. Your main concern with this check is that oil consumption is not rapidly increasing. If it is, take your car to a repair shop as soon as possible and have it checked out. It is acceptable for the oil to be dark as long as you change it at the recommended intervals. However, it should never be foamy and should never have a strong gasoline smell. If either of these conditions exist, have it checked out soon.

  • Transmission fluid
    Most automatic transmissions should be checked while the engine is running. Check your owners manual to be sure. Also make sure the car is on a level surface and fully warmed up. Pull the transmission dipstick out, wipe off the end and note the markings on the end of the stick. The usual markings are "Full" and "Add 1 pint." Push the stick into the tube until it seats, then immediately pull it out to see the fluid level. Transmission fluid should be pink or red in color with the look and consistency of cherry cough syrup. If the fluid is a muddy brown or has a burnt smell, have it checked by a mechanic. As with the engine, never add fluid unless it is below the "Add" mark and never bring it above the "Full" mark. Make sure you use the correct transmission fluid for your vehicle. If you plan to add Transmission fluid yourself, you should know that fluid usually comes in quarts, but the level may not be low enough to take the full quart. Also, you will need a special funnel to get the fluid into the small tube that the dipstick came out of. Check your owners manual for the type of fluid and do not substitute anything else. Any noticeable transmission oil consumption should be checked out at a repair shop.

  • Brake fluid
    The brake fluid reservoir is under the hood right in front of the steering wheel. Most cars today have a transparent reservoir so that you can see the level without opening the cover. The brake fluid level will drop slightly as the brake pads wear out. This is a normal condition and you shouldn't worry about it. If the level drops noticeably over a short period of time or goes down to about two thirds full, have your brakes checked as soon as possible. NEVER PUT ANYTHING BUT APPROVED BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR BRAKES. ANYTHING ELSE CAN CAUSE SUDDEN BRAKE FAILURE! Keep the reservoir covered except for the amount of time you need to fill it and never leave a can of brake fluid uncovered. Brake fluid must maintain a very high boiling point .Exposure to air will cause the fluid to absorb moisture which will lower that boiling point.

  • Power steering fluid
    The power steering fluid reservoir usually has a small dipstick attached to the cap. Remove the cap and check the fluid level. The level should not change more than the normal range on the stick. If you have to add fluid more than once or twice a year, then have the system checked for leaks. These systems are easily damaged if you drive while the fluid is very low. Another warning of low power steering fluid is a buzzing noise when you turn the steering wheel at slow speeds.
  • Coolant (Antifreeze) level
    Never open the radiator of a car that has just been running.
    The cooling system of a car is under high pressure with fluid that is usually hotter than boiling water. Look for the cooling system reserve tank, somewhere near the radiator. It is usually translucent white so you can see the fluid level without opening it. (Do not confuse it with the windshield washer tank). The reserve tank will have two marks on the side of it. "FULL HOT" and "FULL COLD." If the level frequently goes below "full cold" after adding fluid, you probably have a leak which should be checked as soon as possible. Today's engines are much more susceptible to damage from overheating, so do not neglect this important system.

  • Battery
    Most batteries today are "maintenance free" which simply means that you can't check the water level. This doesn't mean however, that there is nothing to check. The main things to check are the top of the battery which should be clean and dry, and the terminal connections which should be clean and tight. If the top of the battery continuously becomes damp or corroded soon after cleaning, then have the charging system and battery checked by your mechanic.

  • Windshield washer solvent
    Windshield washer solvent is readily available by the gallon in auto supply stores as well as supermarkets and it is cheap. It is fine to use with or without adding water but will clean better undiluted. Never dilute it during winter months to insure that it retains its antifreeze protection.

  • Belts & Hoses
  • In most cases your mechanic can check your belts and hoses when you bring in the car for an oil change. However, if you get your oil changed by some quick lube type centers, belts and hoses may not be on their list of items to check in which case you're on your own. These checks are best done while the car is cold.

    Belts are used to drive a number of components on an engine including: the water pump, power steering pump, air conditioner, alternator and an emission control pump. Some later model cars have a single "serpentine" belt that handles everything. This type of belt looks flat on one side with several ribs on the other side. You should check the ribbed side for signs of dry and cracked rubber
    .Serpentine belts are usually self adjusting and very durable. They should last about 30,000 miles. The other type of belt is called a "V" belt and is adjustable. There is usually more than one to an engine, sometimes three or four. Check each one for cracks and tightness and have them replaced if you find any problems. Some V belts are hard to reach but no less important so if you can't reach it to check then have your mechanic do it periodically.

    Hoses should be checked visually and by feel. You are looking for dry cracked rubber, especially at the ends where they are attached. You should also check the ends for any signs of ballooning.

  • Windshield wiper blades Windshield wiper
  • I think that every driver knows what it is like to drive in the rain with bad wiper blades. (I know... I'm not under the hood any more... stop being technical) Wiper blades should be changed every 6,000 to 10,000 miles. Wiper blades will tend to streak when they are dirty. Take a paper towel with some window cleaner and clean the rubber blade whenever you clean the windshield.

  • Tires
  • Buy a decent tire gage and keep it in the car. Improper tire pressure can affect tire wear as well as ride and handling. You should always check your tires when they are cold. Use the manufacturers recommended tire pressures. Tire pressure tends to rise as you drive due to heat build-up. Manufacturers have this in mind when they set the recommended cold pressures so do not let air out when the tire gets hot. Check the tire again when it cools off and you will find that the pressure is back to where it was. Tire pressure will change with the seasons, so in winter months make sure they are not under inflated. Remember, always check them when they are cold.

Top 10 Mistakes

"..Drivers Overthere Please Read This.."

It's no secret that teen drivers are at greater risk for accidents than older adults — four times greater, according to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Chalk it up to a number of factors, among them inexperience dealing with emergency situations, distracted driving and the inclination to show off to friends.

Being Distracted Behind the Wheel

Cell phones, CDs, food and even text messages can pose serious distractions to drivers. In some cases, drivers will even text their backseat passengers.

In January, a national survey by the Children's Hospital of Philadelphia and State Farm Insurance reported that 89 percent of teens said they observed other teens driving and talking on their cell phones, and nearly half admitted to doing the same. More troubling is that 53 percent said they observed their peers using handheld devices, like iPods or text-messaging phones, while behind the wheel.

Any form of distraction increases the risk of accident. In 2006, a yearlong study by Virginia Tech observed 241 Washington, D.C., drivers and concluded that distracted driving contributed to 80 percent of collisions. In rear-end accidents, 93 percent of drivers had looked away from the road at some point during the 3 seconds before impact.

Taking Too Many Risks

Actions like ignoring traffic signals or school zone signs and changing lanes without checking blind spots "risky behavior." They said the difference between risky behavior and distracted driving is that risky behavior is deliberate, while distracted driving is often the result of ignorance.

Teenage minds might actually be predisposed to risk-taking. In 2005 and 2006, researchers at Cornell and Stanford conducted risk-reward studies across a range of age groups. The study, funded by the National Institute on Drug Abuse and published in The Journal of Neuroscience, measured activity in two areas of the brain — one that triggers impulsive actions and another that reins them in with rationality and caution. Researchers found that when confronted with risky choices, teen brains exhibit twice as much activity in the impulse area as adult brains, while the area that expresses restraint lags behind. It takes until the early 20s for the two areas to reach parity, the study said.

Speeding

Most drivers occasionally speed, but teens do so because they don't have a good sense of how a car's speed can affect their response time.

"They will exceed speeds on residential roads that they interpret as empty because they haven't had close calls or someone coming out into the road," Tsifrin said.

A 2005 study by the National Institutes of Health in Washington, D.C., found that teens drive an average of 1.3 mph faster than all drivers as a whole. In turn, IIHS reported that speeding factored into roughly one-third of all fatal crashes in 2005 when teenagers were behind the wheel — some 50 percent more than it did in fatal crashes for 20- to 49-year-olds.

Overcrowding the Car

Teens frequently overcrowd their cars, cramming five or six into a cabin meant to seat four or five, Tsifrin said. Worse yet, the extra passengers often result in teens driving more aggressively. The NIH study found that when accompanied by male passengers in the front seat, teens of both genders speed more and leave shorter following distances; a quarter of the drivers in the study broke the speed limit by 15 mph or more. Researchers confirmed the same trend for teenage girls driving with other girls, but teenage boys drove less aggressively when girls rode up front.

The distractions of carrying too many passengers can have serious consequences. A 2000 study by IIHS and the Johns Hopkins University said that with two passengers, 16-year-old drivers were at nearly double the risk of having a fatal accident than if they were driving alone. With three or more passengers, the risk was nearly triple.

Driving Under the Influence

In 2006, a study by the University of Michigan and NIDA reported that 45 percent of high school seniors surveyed said they drank alcohol in the past month. When teens drink and drive, they're even less likely to practice safe habits like seat belt usage: Of the 15- to 20-year-olds killed after drinking and driving in 2003, 74 percent were unrestrained, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.

"This is a huge problem," Tsifrin said. "Because they're too young to drink legally ... they're also less likely to call their parents to come and get them. It's more likely for a 22-year-old to call their parents and tell them to pick them up."

Of course, alcohol isn't the only influence: Last January's State Farm/CHOP survey said that 45 percent of teens reported seeing other teens drive high. A study in 1999 by NHTSA and Maastricht University in the Netherlands found that after low doses of marijuana, reaction times worsened by 0.9 seconds when moving at 59 mph in test conditions. That translates to an extra 78 feet of travel. With both alcohol and marijuana, reaction times were 1.6 seconds, or 139 feet, worse.

Following Too Closely

At 60 mph, a typical car needs between 120 and 140 feet to reach a full stop. Most SUVs require an extra 5 to 10 feet on top of that. Consider that 60 mph translates to 88 feet per second, and it's easy to see why maintaining a proper following distance is a critical step in preventing accidents. Unfortunately, many teens fail to do so: In the NIH study, teen drivers left nearly two-tenths of a second less following distance behind the car ahead than did general traffic. Even at 40 mph, that's 10 feet less stopping distance.

Tsifrin blames it on driving tactics that flaunt swagger over safety. "They want to drive aggressively as far as showing off," he said. "There's still the kind of high school attitude of 'Who am I in the pecking order?'"

Driving Unbuckled

A 2003 survey by NHTSA reported that 79 percent of drivers age 16 to 24 said they wore their seat belts regularly, while 84 percent of the overall population did so.

Tsifrin blames the lack of usage on many young drivers' sense of invincibility — "the hubris of youth," he called it — which also factors into teen speeding. Fortunately, many cars today have seat belt reminders that flash warning lights or chime until belts are secured. Call them annoying, but they help keep occupants buckled.

Not Being Able to Handle Emergencies

Knowing how to avoid an accident comes with driving experience. Young drivers can only learn so much in the classroom, which leaves learning maneuvers like straightening out a skid or how to apply the brakes correctly to real-world experience. Speeding and distracted driving only make things worse, Tsifirn said, as they compound the lack of experience by putting drivers at higher risk of encountering an emergency situation in the first place.

Driving Drowsy

Drowsy driving affects an unlikely group — the so-called "good kids," Tsifrin said. That means straight-A students or those with a full plate of extracurricular activities.

"Overachievers have a lot of pressure here," he said. "If they're playing varsity sports and are also preparing for an AP English exam, and if they've been going from 7 a.m. and now it's midnight and they have to get home, they don't think, 'I'm too tired to drive.'"

Fatigue can affect more than just the valedictorians and star athletes. Three-fourths of teens in the State Farm/CHOP survey said they had observed their peers driving while fatigued. Across the general population, NHTSA estimates that fatigue and sleep deprivation contribute to some 100,000 reported crashes and 1,500 deaths each year.

Choosing the Wrong Car and Not Maintaining It

Too often, a combination of tight budgets and high style leads teens to pass up important safety features for larger engines and flashy accessories.

"A teen or novice driver ... will opt for a cool-looking sports car rather than a car that's really a safer choice," Tsifrin said. "Then, if they sink all their money into it, they might be remiss in maintaining it."

That doesn't just mean forgetting to check tire pressure or picking a car with a sunroof instead of one with antilock brakes. It can also translate into buying oversized SUV wheels that look fancy but reduce highway stability, or getting a performance stereo that drowns out potential hazards a driver might hear, such as an ambulance siren.
Bookmark and Share