Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Inspira VS Fuga

Recently we are hear about perdana replacement model. Berita Harian Online
reports that the Nissan Fuga will be the Perdana replacement model.Is it TRUE??

Here is some info about Fuga for perdana fans.

The Fuga (Japanese: 日産・フーガ) is a full-size luxury car from Nissan of Japan, introduced in October 2004. First shown as the Fuga Concept at the 2003 Tokyo Motor Show, it is a direct replacement for the long running Nissan Cedric, Nissan Gloria, Nissan Cima and Nissan President series of cars.

Some history about Fuga..

When the Prince (Nissan) Gloria was first introduced in 1959, it was based on a stretched version of the original Prince (Nissan) Skyline, which was first introduced in 1957. Nissan used this approach again for the Fuga, using the Skyline platform again.

Nissan wanted to create a fresh approach started by the Cedric/Gloria and focus its efforts to compete with European executive mid-sized sports sedans, such as the BMW 5 series, Audi A6, Mercedes-Benz E-Class and Jaguar S-Type.

The Fuga trim levels began with "XV" and ended with "GT" as the top trim package, equivalent to the previous "Brougham" and "Gran Turismo" versions of the Cedric and Gloria.

The Fuga's primary competitor from Toyota is the Toyota Crown Athlete Series, but also competes with the Lexus GS. The Fuga at its introduction was one level below the Nissan Cima, which is 2" longer.

The Fuga is also used as an uplevel Taxi in Japan.

Fuga Basic structure..

Aluminum is used in the body, hood, trunk lid and is also used in the doors internally to reduce weight. The front suspension uses a double wishbone setup, also to reduce unsprung weight, and to improve vehicle handling. This type of suspension was previously used on the Cedric/Gloria until 1983, when that platform began to use MacPherson struts for the front suspension, but still uses the multilink rear suspension which was introduced on the Cedric/Gloria in 1979. The Fuga uses aluminum alloy extensively in both the front and rear suspension components.

Let give your comments about this...

Saturday, July 25, 2009

kereta perdana

kereta perdana

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Upgrade your Perdana

Let`s learn first:

Various of Mitsubishi Engine and quite pupular to Proton cars

1) G61 fix

The 4G61 displaces 1595 cc (82.3 x 75.0 mm bore/stroke). This engine was always DOHC 16-valve and used either Multi-point (MPFI) or Electronic Control (ECFI) fuel injection. A turbocharged version was also produced for the Mirage and Lancer. The 4G61 does not have balance shafts like the other 4G6x motors. Instead, it has different components, some of which can be used on the “Silent Shaft” engine.


· 4G61 91kW-124HP/6500 142Nm/5000

· 4G61T (USA/Canada only) 99kW-135HP/6000 191Nm/3000

· 4G61T (Japan) 160HP-117.68kW/6000 220.65Nm/2500


· 1988–1992 Mitsubishi Mirage / Mitsubishi Colt (MPFI)

· 1988–1992 Dodge Colt / Plymouth Colt

· 1988–1992 Eagle Summit

· 1992–1995 Hyundai Elantra

2) 4G62

The larger 1.8 L 4G62 was an DOHC 16-valve unit for longitudinal rear-wheel drive and all-wheel drive use. With an 80.6 x 88.0 mm bore / stroke, it displaced 1795 cc.


· 1983–1989 Mitsubishi Cordia

· 1988 Mitsubishi Tredia

· 1984-1986 Mitsubishi L300 (Australia - Also known as the Mitsubishi Express)

· 1993-1994 Mitsubishi Lancer GSR

3) 4G63

The 4G63 was a 1997 cc version. (85 mm Bore x 88 mm Stroke) SOHC and DOHC were produced. The DOHC version was introduced in 1987 in the Japanese market Galant VR-4 and came turbocharged or naturally aspirated. It is found in various models including the 1988-92 Galant VR-4 and the U.S. market 1990-1994 Eclipse, as well as the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution I-IX.

The SOHC version was used in Mitsubishi Galant models until 1993. It has 76 kW of output and 157 NM of torque at 4750 rpm.

Also the SOHC version is produced until the late 90s and early 2000 and it is used in Mitsubishi cars like the Montero and the 2.0L 2-door Pajero with an output of 101kW at 4700 rpm. Also the N33 and N83 Spacewagon(UK market) in single cam 16 valve format.

The Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon and Plymouth Laser introduced the DOHC turbocharged intercooled version to the U.S. in 1989 through Diamond Star Motors, a joint venture between Mitsubishi Motors and the Chrysler Corporation. From 1990 to late April 1992 came beefier rods and the use of 6 bolts to secure the flywheel to the crankshaft; May 1992 to 2006 Evolution versions have lighter rods and use 7 bolts to secure the flywheel to the crankshaft. They are referred to as the “six bolt” and “seven bolt” engines, respectively.

Output for the 2003 Japanese/US Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution is 271 hp (202 kW) at 6500 rpm with 273 ft·lbf (370 N·m) of torque at 3500 rpm. It has a cast iron engine block and aluminum DOHC cylinder head. It uses multi-point fuel injection, has 4 valves per cylinder, is turbocharged and intercooled and features forged steel connecting rods.

In the United Kingdom, a special Lancer Evolution, the FQ-400, produces 302.13 kW (405.2 hp), from a 4G63 engine. At 202.6 hp (151.3 kW) per liter, it has the highest specific output per liter of any production engine.


Its turbocharged variant, 4G63T (also sometimes referred to simply as the 4G63), has powered Mitsubishi vehicles in World Rally Championships for years in the Mitsubishi Galant VR-4, Lancer Evolution, Carisma GT and Lancer WRC04. It was the powerplant of the Lancer Evolution when Tommi Mäkinen won his four sequential WRC championships in his Lancer.


· 1983-1998 Mitsubishi Chariot

· 1984–1987 Dodge Colt Vista

· 1987-1992 Hyundai Stellar

· 1988 Mitsubishi Cordia

· 1988 Mitsubishi Tredia

· 1988–1992 Dodge Colt Vista

· 1989–1992 Mitsubishi Galant

· 1989–1992 US-spec Mitsubishi Galant

· 1990–1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse

· 1990–1998 Eagle Talon

· 1990–1994 Plymouth Laser

· 1982–1990 Mitsubishi Starion (Australia)

· 1992–1998 Hyundai Sonata

· 1986-1998 Hyundai Grandeur

· 1993-1998 Mitsubishi Montero

· 1994–1998 Mitsubishi RVR X3 Turbo

· 1994-1998 Mitsubishi Delica 2WD version (Japan)

· 1996-1999 Proton Perdana sei

· 1992-2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution

· 2001-2006 Mitsubishi Airtrek Turbo

· 2001-2006 Mitsubishi Outlander Turbo

· 2004-present Brilliance BS6

4) 4G64

The longitudinal 4G64 is the second largest variant, at (2350 cc). Early models were 8-valve SOHC, but a later 16-valve SOHC and DOHC version was also produced. All used MPFI with an 86.5 mm bore and 100 mm stroke. The 4G64 was also available with gasoline direct injection. The version used in the Chrysler Sebring/Stratus coupes produced 152 hp (110 kW) at 5500 rpm with 162 ft·lbf (214 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm. The Chrysler version features fracture-split forged powder metal connecting rods. The 4G64 is an interference motor like the 4G63, however, the early 8-valve 4G64 is a non interference engine.


· 1987–1990 Mitsubishi Sapporo

· 1988–1990 Mitsubishi Van

· 1990–1992 Mitsubishi L200

· 1990–1996 Mitsubishi Mighty Max

· 1986-1998 Hyundai Grandeur

· 1993-1997 Mitsubishi Expo

· 1994–2003 Mitsubishi Galant

· 1996–1998 Mitsubishi Magna

· 1994–2006 Mitsubishi Spacegear (2WD Version)

· 1996–1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS

· 2000–2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS & GS

· 2003 Mitsubishi Outlander

· 2005 Mitsubishi Zinger

· 1989–1991 Hyundai Sonata

· 1990–1992 Dodge Ram 50

· 2001–2005 Chrysler Sebring coupe/Dodge Stratus coupe

· 2004-present Brilliance BS6

· 2008-present Chery V5

· 2006-present Great Wall Hover

· 2006-present Great Wall Hover Pi

5) 4G67

The 16-valve DOHC 4G67 displaced 1836 cc. Bore x Stroke : 81.5 x 88


· Mitsubishi Mirage

· Mitsubishi Galant

· Mitsubishi Lancer

· Hyundai Elantra

6) 4G69

The 4G69 is a 2378 cc version built in Shiga, Japan. Bore is 87 mm and stroke is 100 mm. Output is 162 hp (119 kW) at 5750 rpm (160 in the Sportback Wagon) with 162 ft·lbf (219 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm. It has a cast iron engine block and aluminum SOHC cylinder heads. It uses multi-point fuel injection, has 4 valves per cylinder with roller followers and features forged steel connecting rods, a one-piece cast camshaft, and a cast aluminum intake manifold. The 4G69 incorporates Mitsubishi’s MIVEC Variable Valve Timing technology. The 4G69 is an interference motor like the 4G63 and 4G64.


· 2003–present Mitsubishi Grandis

· 2004–2006 Mitsubishi Lancer (Ralliart and Sportback Wagon only)

· 2004–present Mitsubishi Galant

· 2004–present Mitsubishi Outlander

· 2006–present Mitsubishi Eclipse

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Perdana V6 Spare Parts list

..Spare parts for Perdana V6 for reference..

  1. Timing Belt : MMC RM220, Gates RM250, Dayco RM295
  2. Bosch Double Platinum Spark Plugs – RM32 per piece, Mkt price RM45+, Plugs can lasts up to 100kkm.
  3. Bosch Fusion Iridium Platinum Spark plugs – RM210 6pcs
  4. Pro Rallye plug wire from USA together with grounding cable, rm220, Plug wire is 10mm, good performance.
  5. Castrol Magnatec together with Bosch oil filter – RM82.
  6. Top overhaul set Showa (made in Japan) RM345.
  7. Overhaul set Showa (made in Japan) RM415
  8. ATF filter & gasket – RM87, Original Proton.
  9. Water pump – RM95 GMB
  10. Black crystal headlamp – RM470 per pair (made in Taiwan)
  11. Bosch wiperblades – RM27
  12. Brake pads, Bendix Metal King Titanium RM94 Front, RM90 Rear.
  13. Bosch Brake pads, RM44 Front, RM48 Rear.
  14. Sachs absorbers front RM195 (per side) rear RM195 (per side)
  15. Kayaba absorbers RM80 front per side (oil), rear RM80 (gas) per side. Actually for Perdana SEI, but can be used for V6 as well. Outside selling Rm100++
  16. Proton ATF oil, RM19 per bottle, use 4 bottles.
  17. Local Perdana air filter – RM13
  18. Bosch alternator V6 RM195
  19. Front wheel bearing RM122 per side (made in Japan)
  20. Rear wheel bearing – RM145 per side (made in Japan)
  21. Lower arm upper- RM70, middle – RM55, lower RM55 per piece (SSS)
  22. Drive shaft head RM85, whole set RM 205
  23. Perdana outer door handle front RM160 per side, original Proton.
  24. Perdana door visors –RM100 (big), RM58 small
  25. Tie-rod end RM60 (2pcs),
  26. Rack end RM65 (2pcs)
  27. Drive Shaft – CyCar (Cycle & Carriage) long RM150, Short RM150

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Tip Top your Perdana Performence

"..10 Under Hood Checks.."

  • 1)Engine oil level
  • 2)Transmission fluid
  • 3)Brake fluid
  • 4)Power steering fluid
  • 5)Coolant (Antifreeze) level
  • 6)Battery
  • 7)Windshield washer solvent
  • 8)Belts and Hoses
  • 9)Windshield wiper blades
  • 10)Tires

  • Engine oil level
    This is the most important under-hood check you can do. An engine cannot run without oil even for a minute without serious engine damage or total destruction!
    To check the oil level, make sure that the engine is turned off, then find the engine oil dipstick and remove it. With a paper towel or rag, wipe off the end of the stick and notice the markings on it. You will usually see a mark for "Full" and another mark for "Add." Check your owners manual to be sure. Push the stick back into the tube until it seats then immediately pull it out to see the oil level. You should not add oil unless the level is below the "Add" mark and NEVER add oil to bring the level above the "Full" mark. Your main concern with this check is that oil consumption is not rapidly increasing. If it is, take your car to a repair shop as soon as possible and have it checked out. It is acceptable for the oil to be dark as long as you change it at the recommended intervals. However, it should never be foamy and should never have a strong gasoline smell. If either of these conditions exist, have it checked out soon.

  • Transmission fluid
    Most automatic transmissions should be checked while the engine is running. Check your owners manual to be sure. Also make sure the car is on a level surface and fully warmed up. Pull the transmission dipstick out, wipe off the end and note the markings on the end of the stick. The usual markings are "Full" and "Add 1 pint." Push the stick into the tube until it seats, then immediately pull it out to see the fluid level. Transmission fluid should be pink or red in color with the look and consistency of cherry cough syrup. If the fluid is a muddy brown or has a burnt smell, have it checked by a mechanic. As with the engine, never add fluid unless it is below the "Add" mark and never bring it above the "Full" mark. Make sure you use the correct transmission fluid for your vehicle. If you plan to add Transmission fluid yourself, you should know that fluid usually comes in quarts, but the level may not be low enough to take the full quart. Also, you will need a special funnel to get the fluid into the small tube that the dipstick came out of. Check your owners manual for the type of fluid and do not substitute anything else. Any noticeable transmission oil consumption should be checked out at a repair shop.

  • Brake fluid
    The brake fluid reservoir is under the hood right in front of the steering wheel. Most cars today have a transparent reservoir so that you can see the level without opening the cover. The brake fluid level will drop slightly as the brake pads wear out. This is a normal condition and you shouldn't worry about it. If the level drops noticeably over a short period of time or goes down to about two thirds full, have your brakes checked as soon as possible. NEVER PUT ANYTHING BUT APPROVED BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR BRAKES. ANYTHING ELSE CAN CAUSE SUDDEN BRAKE FAILURE! Keep the reservoir covered except for the amount of time you need to fill it and never leave a can of brake fluid uncovered. Brake fluid must maintain a very high boiling point .Exposure to air will cause the fluid to absorb moisture which will lower that boiling point.

  • Power steering fluid
    The power steering fluid reservoir usually has a small dipstick attached to the cap. Remove the cap and check the fluid level. The level should not change more than the normal range on the stick. If you have to add fluid more than once or twice a year, then have the system checked for leaks. These systems are easily damaged if you drive while the fluid is very low. Another warning of low power steering fluid is a buzzing noise when you turn the steering wheel at slow speeds.
  • Coolant (Antifreeze) level
    Never open the radiator of a car that has just been running.
    The cooling system of a car is under high pressure with fluid that is usually hotter than boiling water. Look for the cooling system reserve tank, somewhere near the radiator. It is usually translucent white so you can see the fluid level without opening it. (Do not confuse it with the windshield washer tank). The reserve tank will have two marks on the side of it. "FULL HOT" and "FULL COLD." If the level frequently goes below "full cold" after adding fluid, you probably have a leak which should be checked as soon as possible. Today's engines are much more susceptible to damage from overheating, so do not neglect this important system.

  • Battery
    Most batteries today are "maintenance free" which simply means that you can't check the water level. This doesn't mean however, that there is nothing to check. The main things to check are the top of the battery which should be clean and dry, and the terminal connections which should be clean and tight. If the top of the battery continuously becomes damp or corroded soon after cleaning, then have the charging system and battery checked by your mechanic.

  • Windshield washer solvent
    Windshield washer solvent is readily available by the gallon in auto supply stores as well as supermarkets and it is cheap. It is fine to use with or without adding water but will clean better undiluted. Never dilute it during winter months to insure that it retains its antifreeze protection.

  • Belts & Hoses
  • In most cases your mechanic can check your belts and hoses when you bring in the car for an oil change. However, if you get your oil changed by some quick lube type centers, belts and hoses may not be on their list of items to check in which case you're on your own. These checks are best done while the car is cold.

    Belts are used to drive a number of components on an engine including: the water pump, power steering pump, air conditioner, alternator and an emission control pump. Some later model cars have a single "serpentine" belt that handles everything. This type of belt looks flat on one side with several ribs on the other side. You should check the ribbed side for signs of dry and cracked rubber
    .Serpentine belts are usually self adjusting and very durable. They should last about 30,000 miles. The other type of belt is called a "V" belt and is adjustable. There is usually more than one to an engine, sometimes three or four. Check each one for cracks and tightness and have them replaced if you find any problems. Some V belts are hard to reach but no less important so if you can't reach it to check then have your mechanic do it periodically.

    Hoses should be checked visually and by feel. You are looking for dry cracked rubber, especially at the ends where they are attached. You should also check the ends for any signs of ballooning.

  • Windshield wiper blades Windshield wiper
  • I think that every driver knows what it is like to drive in the rain with bad wiper blades. (I know... I'm not under the hood any more... stop being technical) Wiper blades should be changed every 6,000 to 10,000 miles. Wiper blades will tend to streak when they are dirty. Take a paper towel with some window cleaner and clean the rubber blade whenever you clean the windshield.

  • Tires
  • Buy a decent tire gage and keep it in the car. Improper tire pressure can affect tire wear as well as ride and handling. You should always check your tires when they are cold. Use the manufacturers recommended tire pressures. Tire pressure tends to rise as you drive due to heat build-up. Manufacturers have this in mind when they set the recommended cold pressures so do not let air out when the tire gets hot. Check the tire again when it cools off and you will find that the pressure is back to where it was. Tire pressure will change with the seasons, so in winter months make sure they are not under inflated. Remember, always check them when they are cold.